During the first segment of my life, the Ku'damm was West Berlin's core in the divided city; it was the place my great-grandmother took me when we went downtown. But since, the area has had little significance for me. It is mostly a declining tourist trap and the domain of the business elite.

Indeed, on the subway ride to the Ku'damm, a couple of young punks ridiculed me in my disguise as an American tourist: Hey, which way to the Ku'damm? they feigned to ask me, laughing among themselves, but without addressing me. I grinned and ignored them.


Packaging up the Kaiser-Wilhelm Memorial Church. Not only the "new" tower is encased in scaffolding; the white box at the base of the old church does the same thing during the restoration.