Relive 'Crystal Crag North Arete'




Mammoth Trip, 2024

September 10

Crystal Crag




9 km with 600 m elevation gain in 10 hrs.




Our first trad multi-pitch, or any multi-pitch at all, has been a couple years in the works. Ever since our first look at the South ArĂȘte in 2019 when we weren't climbers yet, to when we were, and were developing ambitions. We agreed our first multi-pitch should be guided - or maybe all of them should be guided.

We broached the idea with Jo, and she proved enthusiastic but later broke to us that she didn't have the multi-pitch certification she would need for that. We also wondered if we were ready, whether we had the skills, and whether Stella could deal with the exposure.

As we continued to show interest, Jo let on she had enrolled in the course to get her multi-pitch certification! Last year Bill was not along due to Covid in his family, but this year we had the momentum to make it work!

Since a guide can only lead two followers, on Jo's suggestion Bill hired Gerry, with whom Jo likes to work. Everything fell into place - the weather played along nicely to nail down Tuesday after we'd gotten a bit acclimatized but could still have at least one more hiking day afterward. Jo led a couple up Crystal Crag several weeks before as a sort of rehearsal, and climbed again with friends the day before our turn. She reported strong icy winds, and we scrambled to put together wardrobes of layers. I had forgotten my fleece jacket at home and wondered if I should go out and buy one. After all, we were to meet and set out at 7 in the morning! -F